Malta is an island in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, with the 'fortune' of being located at the crossroads of trade routes when sea transport was the only means of travel. This resulted in the island's culture becoming a melting pot of different influences. Our interest in Malta was in the historic connections and who's who of conquerors including: Phoenicians
Romans, Normans, Crusader Knights (Order of St John) and the British. Malta was more than just a holiday resort for winter sunshine - the island was a living museum and we enjoyed our time there exploring the different districts.
Travelling to Malta
Choosing to fly to Malta in the 'low' season of February meant that we could take advantage of discounted prices. Our flight back to London was only 19 GBP per person. Weather wise, the sun was shining during our visit but the temperature was too cold for swimming at the beach, making it less attractive for large tourist crowds as a resort destination.
We flew out on a Saturday morning, arriving in Malta by lunch-time and caught an airport bus X3 to the town of Saint Julian's where our hotel was located. After reading travel forums, Saint Julian's was selected as our base location ahead of the capital, Valletta as it was closer to the restaurant and nightlife district of Paceville.
Hotel Valentina
Our hotel: Hotel Valentina was a modern boutique hotel in a central location near restaurants and public transport connections. The latter was important to us as we were travelling around the island by bus. As this trip was an advanced celebration of our wedding anniversary, we informed the hotel during our booking (using the special request box on Booking.com). To our delight, we received a complementary bottle of champagne and card as soon as we checked in.
 |
Complementary champagne and card
- Great customer service |
Exploring by Bus
Getting around Malta is easy using the bus network. There are also taxis and hiring a car from the airport is a popular option. However to avoid having to search for parking whilst sightseeing, we bought a multi-day bus pass. Note: In off-peak season, the bus runs at a reduced frequency, compared with the times advertised at the bus stops. Occasionally we had to wait over 40 minutes for a bus to arrive and then use multiple buses to get our way around the island.
 |
| The airport bus station |
In immediate walking distance to our hotel was the seafront of Saint Julian's Bay with a collection of restaurants, shops and fishing boats. The latter, traditional 'luzzu' vessels painted in bright colours and a bow adorned with a pair of eyes - the 'Eye of Osiris'; an ancient superstition for keeping fishermen protected at sea.
 |
| Traditional luzzu |
Raffael Restaurant
Walking along the harbour-front, many restaurant menus took our interest with offerings of multi-cultural cuisine and traditional Maltese dishes. We chose the Raffael Restaurant, located in the 17th century Palazzo Spinola as the place to eat dinner. It has a large terrace covered with umbrellas but it was too cold to eat outdoors that night. The dishes tried included a baked pasta pie and stuffed squid.
 |
| Palazzo Spinola and the Raffael Restaurant |
 |
| Pasta pie |
 |
| Stuffed squid |
The next morning, we caught the X12 bus to Valletta. By distance, it is a short trip however with traffic and frequent stops it is best to allow more than 40 minutes including the walk from the bus terminal to inside the walled city.
Valletta is the capital city of Malta, named after Jean Parisot de Valette, Grand Master of the Order of Malta, Knight and Commander of the island's forces that resisted the Ottoman invasion in 1565.
 |
| Statue of Jean Paisot de Valette |
Our destination inside Valletta was Fort St Elmo to check out a historical re-enactment of a military drill - the 'In Guardia Parade'. We had intended to reach the site early to secure the best seats. In reality, we didn't need to worry as spectator numbers were down due to the rain.
Fort St Elmo
The fort is one of Malta's most well known historical attractions, as it was the site of the Great Siege of 1551 when the residents withstood an Ottoman attack despite being heavily outnumbered. The In Guardia Parade re-enacts the inspection of the fort, soldiers and knights by the Grand Bailiff. The event includes displays of sword fighting and cannons.
The parade began with commentary in several different languages. The inspection party was accompanied by musical instruments - trumpets and drums.
 |
| Trumpets sounding the arrival of the Grand Bailiff |
 |
| Drummers encircling the parade ground |
Next the different types of infantry paraded into the courtyard, waiting in attention for the Grand Bailiff to arrive.
 |
| The different infantry groups arrive |
 |
| Waiting for the Grand Bailiff |
The ceremony commenced with a speech and the Grand Bailiff seated on a podium structure, watching each Commander walk forward to kiss the Maltese flag.
 |
| The Grand Bailiff inspecting the commanders |
 |
| The inspection opens up with a short speech |
 |
| The Grand Bailiff settles in to watch the demonstration |
 |
| Paying homage to the Maltese flag |
The Commanders then take turns to demonstrate their group's military specialization. The most impressive were the hand-to-hand sword fighting and the artillery presentation.
 |
| Loading ammunition |
 |
| Aim and fire |
 |
| Pike moves, coordinated thrusting |
 |
| Sword fighting demonstration |
 |
| Think we have a winner |
 |
| Loading the cannon |
 |
| Fire |
 |
Standing next to the remains of a burning
imitation cannon ball |
Grand Harbour
The Grand Harbour was a strategic stop-over point for invasion and trade between Europe, Africa and Asia that made conquering Malta so desirable by the different civilizations. Over the centuries, it has been heavily fortified and Valletta itself is a walled UNESCO listed city. Cannons, forts and defensive battlements were interesting to explore.
 |
| Overlooking the Grand Harbour |
On the opposite side of the habour to Valletta, are the three fortified cities of: Vittoriosa (Birgu), Senglea (Isla) and Cospicua (Bormla), known collectively as 'The Three Cities'. We didn't have time to explore them but saw a glimpse of their scenic architecture whilst walking the walls around Valletta.
 |
| Fort St Angelo |
 |
| Luxury yachts against a 16th century background |
 |
| The Spur, Senglea (Isla) |
The Malta Experience - Film
After Fort Elmo, we visited The Malta Experience - a film that explains through re-enactments and other historical footage, the amazing 7000 years of history. It is definitely worth a visit as it gave us more insight into the different cultural influences, the events that shaped the nation and ideas for places to visit.
 |
| The Malta Experience - a must for any visit to Malta |
World War II Monument
During World War II, the area around Valletta was heavily bombed. A monument to the lives lost during World War II sits at the entrance to the Grand Harbour.
 |
| World War II bell and monument |
 |
| Explanatory plaque |
 |
| Paintings of war ships that we assume have docked at the harbour |
Upper Barrakka Gardens
Walking back into the center of Valletta, we took the scenic route via the Upper Barrakka Gardens - a public space at the highest point of the city walls with sculptures, water features and a great place to relax and enjoy the views.
 |
| Water feature at the gardens |
 |
| Temple feature among the palm trees |
 |
| Sculptures in the classic style |
Other highlights of Valletta
When we entered the city gates of Valletta, the city was quiet on a Sunday morning. This gave us a chance to explore the streets easily. The main entrance into the fortifications is impressive - deep moat, long central boulevard (Triq ir Repubblika) and ruins of the Royal Opera House that have been converted into an outdoor performance square - Pjazza Teatru Rjal.
 |
| Ruins of the Royal Opera House, bombed in World War II |
There are many paintings and murals decorating the buildings. Also characteristic are the covered balconies and the red British telephone boxes.
 |
| Spot the telephone box |
 |
| Covered balconies that are typical in Malta |
Three popular attractions within Valletta are the Grandmaster's Palace (we only visited the garden area), St George's Square and the St John's Co-Cathedral - a dazzling example of Baroque style in the use of marble, gold and painted murals on the floor.
 |
| Grandmaster's Palace that houses the Palace Armoury |
 |
| Garden outside the Palace Armoury |
 |
| Eagle fountain |
 |
| St George's Square |
 |
| Painted murals inside the Cathedral |
Mdina and Rabat
In the afternoon we caught a bus from the main terminal outside Valletta to the twin cities of Mdina and Rabat. Located in the north part of the island, this area was the original capital city with settlement at Mdina dating back to 4000BC due to the high land with views of the surrounding sea that could be used to spot invaders.
 |
| View of Mdina towards the sea and Valletta |
Mdina is also known as the 'Silent City' - a car-free zone with a mix of different architectural styles that appealed to the producers of Game of Thrones, as it was used as the original site of Kings Landing during Season 1 before filming was moved to Dubrovnik.
 |
| Main gate |
 |
| Moat and defensive walls |
The city is ringed by high defensive walls, protecting a residential area with narrow streets, hotels and churches. The largest building is St Paul's Cathedral, dedicated to the Apostle Paul who was shipwrecked in Malta in AD 60 and cured a man of a fever at the present location.
 |
| Facade of the Cathedral |
 |
| Octagonal dome |
We spent about two hours exploring the laneways in Mdina before returning back to the hotel.
 |
| Medieval stone balcony |
 |
| Very narrow laneways |
 |
| Museum of Natural History |
 |
| The museum is set in an 18th century Baroque palace |
Blue Elephant Restaurant
Taking on a recommendation from a colleague, for dinner we tried the Blue Elephant Restaurant at the Hilton Hotel in Saint Julian's. The cuisine was Thai and although the prices were on the higher end of the scale due to its luxury surroundings, the food was tasty and worth the visit.
Gozo
Gozo is an island within the Maltese archipelago and is a popular day trip destination for visitors to Malta. A ferry (approximately 30 minutes duration) transports sightseeing tourists from Ċirkewwa to the harbour of Mġarr
 |
| Gozo Ferry |
 |
| Gozo ferry at the harbour of Mgarr |
 |
| Hanging out onboard |
Along the way we passed by the island of Comino, famous as the site of the Blue Lagoon - popular with snorkelers and swimmers but the island was deserted in the winter months when we visited.
 |
| Passing by Comino and the Blue Lagoon |
On arrival in Gozo marina, we spotted the skyline of the capital city: Victoria (Rabat). The city sits high on a hill as a citadel dating back to the 16th century after the Ottomans invaded and enslaved most of the population.
 |
| Victoria (Rabat) |
Hop on Hop off bus
We bought a ticket on the hop-on hop off tourist bus as the simplest form of transport around the country. The bus pulled out of the harbour and headed into Victoria before different routes ventured north, west or east.
 |
| View of a Church in Mgarr |
The bus took a slow and scenic route through the country side, with the commentary pointing out historical events, buildings, statues (including one of Christ the Redeemer - Tas-Salvatur) and an opportunity to visit a vegetable processing factory.
 |
| Interesting sculpture |
On arrival into Victoria, we stopped by the pastry shop: Tal Lajku to eat a couple of pastries with cans of beer; before continuing our sightseeing journey.
Azure Window
Malta was used as a filming location during the first season of Game of Thrones. However, although the filming moved to different locations for future seasons, the islands still draws in crowds based on that connection. One popular site is the Azure Window - a natural rock arch that served as the location of the wedding scene between characters: Daenerys Targaryen and Khal Drogo.
For the rest of the afternoon, we returned to Victoria and explored the streets and Gozo Cathedral - under renovation so most entrances were closed; before catching the bus back to the harbour.
Maltese Mama
For dinner, we stayed in the Saint Julian's neighborhood, eating at the family run restaurant: Maltese Mama. On the night we visited, we were the restaurant's only patrons. However it was a Monday night in the off-peak season and some restaurants closer to the harbour closed early as they didn't fill any tables.
 |
| At Maltese Mama, waiting for food |
 |
| Starter plate of breads, olives and dips |
 |
| Pasta with cheese sauce |
 |
| Grilled fish |
 |
| Mixed seafood plate |
Hagar Qim Temples
In the south west side of the island, the temple of Hagar Qim is one of Malta's megalithic structures - dating back to 3600-3200 BC. It was excavated in 1839 and includes stones that weigh close to 20 tonnes.
 |
| Megalithic structures |
 |
| Scrolled and pitted decorations |
 |
| Hole used as a doorway |
 |
| Hole that aligns with the Summer Solstice |
 |
| Enormous stones moved in place without modern machinery |
 |
| A 20 tonne stone slab |
The stones have been used to form rooms with doorways, altars and carved decorations, with holes carved in to align with the rising sun of the Summer Solstice.
 |
| Temple structure |
 |
| Mysterious obese figures discovered onsite |
 |
| Pitted decorations on an archway |
We used the public bus to visit the site, being dropped off close to the entrance. However, the returning bus failed to emerge after a wait of 45 minutes - although we had stunning views of the Mediterranean sea to keep us occupied whilst we waited. Given the off-peak nature of bus punctuality, we decided not to gamble and wait. Instead we took up an offer by an enterprising cab driver to ferry us to the airport for a flat rate. Unknown to us, as soon as we jumped inside, the bus pulled up from behind the hill.
 |
| View of the Mediterranean Sea |
Next blog post:
Tromso, Norway
**Connect With Us**
This post was written by:
Culture Stamps
If you liked this post, please share it with others using the social media buttons below.
To connect with us and see snippets of our Culture Stamp travel adventures:
Malta is an island in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, with the 'fortune' of being located at the crossroads of trade routes when sea transport was the only means of travel. This resulted in the island's culture becoming a melting pot of different influences. Our interest in Malta was in the historic connections and who's who of conquerors including: Phoenicians
No comments:
Post a Comment