18 August 2013

Isle of Wight, UK

To give our family in Australia a reference point when we talked about the location of Mei's birthday weekend trip - we compared the Isle of Wight as England's version of Phillip Island (just without the penguins).
For the non-Victorian based readers, we invite you to do a quick internet search of Phillip Island, skipping over references to the MotoGP, koalas and giant earthworms; you will find that note only are the Isle of Wight and Phillip Island both lemon shaped, but they both have townships named Cowes and Ventnor.



Travelling to the Isle of Wight
Travelling to the Isle of Wight from London is very easy. We bought off-peak return rail tickets from London Waterloo to the Portsmouth and Southsea train station. A Hoverbus shuttle service then transported us to the pier and the Isle of Wight Hovercraft took 10minutes to deliver us to the township of Ryde.

On the train down to Portsmouth

Hovercraft from Portsmouth to Ryde 

Traveling to Shanklin
From Ryde, we boarded a Victorian era looking train to the township of Shanklin. The train ride was very bumpy and the inside reminded us of the W-class trams that operate the City Circle line in Melbourne. 

The train line on the Isle of Wight

Exploring Shanklin
At Shanklin, we were picked up at the train station by the car-hire operator and after some brief paperwork we were off behind wheel for the first time since our trip back to Australia in February. We had an initial hiccup of trying to check into the wrong hotel. We were supposed to be in Luccombe Manor, not Luccombe Hall - although they are both owned by the same parent company.

Luccombe Manor

Birthday photo

Shanklin is also known for its very pretty old town that still contains thatch roofs and tea houses.

Thatch buildings in the Old Town

The tea houses and pubs in Shanklin

An old church

Local pub humour

Finding our bearings
Google map navigation and the offline map features, played a pivotal role in ensuring we could traverse from point A to B. Mobile phone reception on the island is a bit flaky and there are a lot of small streets and laneways that were not marked on the paper map that we had picked up from the car-hire place.

Ventnor
Our first destination was to get lunch and we headed to the township of Ventnor. However, confronted by a lack of parking options as it was summer and the beaches were packed; we headed further south to the town of Niton, The High Street contained only a few shops and we picked up a bag of sandwiches, Red Bull and pastries to sustain us for the day. Heading further west, we stopped off at a lookout point near Freshwater Bay where we took photos of the stunning limestone cliffs.

Limestone cliffs near Freshwater Bay

Freshwater Bay
We did a short stop at Freshwater Bay where Mei tried unsuccessfully to look for fossils. The Isle of Wight is famed for being the Dinosaur capital of the UK but we didn't have time this trip to visit the Dinosaur Island attraction or embark on a fossil hunting trip. The stop after was at the famed Needles Pleasure Park, Alum Bay. 

At the Needles Pleasure Park

The Needles
The Needles are three stacks of chalk that rise from the sea and the most western point of the island. Similar to the Twelve Apostles along the Great Ocean Road where there are no longer twelve stacks; the Needles apparently lost the only stack that looked like a needle in 1764 but the name has stuck. 

The Needles

Marconi Transmission Monument
The Needles site is also famous as the world's first permanent wireless station where Guglielmo Marconi conducted a series of wireless transmission trials in 1897.

The Marconi monument

Cowes
We drove back to the hotel via the inland route, quite busy with traffic as the international yachting event - Cowes Week had just concluded. That night, we left the car at the hotel and hired a taxi to the restaurant, the Hambrough in Ventnor. 

Getting ready for a night out

The Hambrough
The Hambrough restaurant overlooks the English Channel. Over cocktails and a delicious tasting menu (requested directly from the waiter), we discussed the great naval battles and attempted invasions that had occurred in that stretch of water over the centuries. Romans, Vikings and the Spanish Armada all having visited. And then we were brought back to current world when the taxi driver, who picked up on our accents, commented on Australia's lack of success in the Ashes cricket.



The Hambrough

Beetroot and grissini nibbles

Martini and Bellini

Lobster broth

Pigeon and roasted grains

Mackerel and squid

Pork belly

Cheese platter

Orange sorbet and yoghurt

Dessert - but we were already quite full

Walking off breakfast
The next day, we ate a full English breakfast on the hotel terrace and walked to the nearby Shanklin Chine (closed that morning) that was the base for operation PLUTO (petrol pipeline under the ocean) used during World War II. We also searched unsuccessfully for a native red squirrel, a rare species now that the American grey squirrel has been introduced into the UK.

English breakfast

Tea for Olie

Shanklin Chine, what we call in Australia a 'gully'

Osborne House
We drove to Queen Victoria's residence, Osborne House in Cowes. As it was Mei's birthday, a Victoria sponge birthday cake and Olie singing Happy Birthday - formalised the celebrations. 

Birthday cake at Osborne House

Garlic Farm
Another Isle of Wight institution and must visit tourist destination is the Garlic Farm. Located on an ancient site where they have discovered evidence of Mesolithic farming, dating back 8000 years and a Roman temple. 

Garlic farm

Garlic shop

Many types of garlic on offer

The cafe area

Garlic Shopping
We bought a hamper of garlic goodies (garlic stuffed olives, garlic pickle, garlic mayonnaise, roasted garlic), a bulb of Elephant garlic (as big as a large onion) and a bag of garlic pork scratchings.

Olie's favourite snack

Our garlic hamper

Bembridge
With all the gourmet treats purchased, it was time for lunch. We drove to the seafood town of Bembridge, the most eastern point of the island. The local tourist guide pointed us to a take-away only supplier that was based on a boat and served up fresh seafood caught that morning.

This way for seafood

The boat - The Well Dressed Crab

Birthday Lobster Lunch
We bought two lobsters wrapped up on a platter and drove back to Shanklin to sit on top of the cliff to enjoy the view and eat our seafood lunch. A perfect end to the birthday weekend away.

Birthday lunch

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