Our second trip to Munich focused on visiting the city's attractions that we had completely missed out on the first time around when we were preoccupied with attending the Oktoberfest beer festival.
We also used this trip to tick off a number of other 'to do list' items - including the castle of Neuschwanstein - the inspiration for Walt Disney's Sleeping Beauty castle; and the Munich Residenz - former royal palace that has a treasury of jewels and artwork that rivals anything we have seen in Europe.
Arriving in Munich
Our trip to Munich kicked off on a Friday night to enable us to spend Saturday making our own way to the castle instead of relying on a tour company. As things turned out with Olie's new job, we ended up being reunited after two weeks apart at Munich's Central Station (Hauptbahnhof) around 1am. Olie's plane from San Francisco via Paris landed several hours before Mei's delayed flight from Heathrow. Our hotel was located within 5 minutes walk from the station, with the convenient location permitting us to overlook the seedy night clubs and kebab shops in the neighbourhood, although we did find a little pastry shop that served good coffee around the corner.
Reunited after two weeks apart
Travelling to Neuschwanstein Castle
Travelling to Neuschwanstein from Munich using public transport requires a train to Fussen and then a bus to the village of Hohenschwangau. Lucky for us, this part of Bavaria had not been impacted by the recent flooding and we were even treated to some clear blue skies. A tip for future travelers is to pre-book train tickets and castle entry online to save time on queues. Also, Munich has a very good transport system and offers a whole day unlimited public transport ticket (Bayern ticket) for a reasonable fee. However, as this ticket only starts from a certain time in the morning, we decided to head out earlier (and pay an additional train fare) in order to beat the main tourist crowds.
Beautiful weather
Overlooking the Alps
Train to Fussen
The train journey took about 2 hours and on arrive at Fussen we were treated to a stunning view of the German side of the Alps. Fussen, is a pretty town that was first settled in Roman times and subsequently used as a film location for Steve McQueen's The Great Escape. It is also the southern point of the Romantic Road - a medieval trade route that features some of Germany's most picturesque towns and castles.
A very pretty town of colourful buildings and laneways
Fussen, at the end of the Romantic Road
Bus ride to Hohenschwangau
The bus ride to Hohenschwangau took about 10 minutes and was packed with tourists from all nationalities. After an energy boost of currywurst and fries, we climbed up a steep hill for about 20 minutes (dodging piles of manure from the horse drawn carriages) before we saw the profile of the castle emerge from above the tree line.
Breakfast of currywurst and fries
The town of Hohenschwangau with Neuschwanstein in the background
Hohenschwangau Castle
The castle had been built by 'mad' King Ludwig, who was obsessed by medieval fantasy - knights, chivalry, swans and the romantic opera of Richard Wagner. It had been built overlooking a valley that contained another castle - Hohenschwangau where King Ludwig had spent his childhood.
Hohenschwangau Castle
At the lookout point
The turrets and high stone walls
You can imagine Sleeping Beauty in here
Main gate of the castle
The rich green and blue scenery
The castle emerging from the trees
Castle Tour
At the castle, we were treated to an example of German process efficiency. Each ticket had been allocated an entry time-slot that was broadcast on a sign on the front gate. The ticket barriers would only accept tickets at the allocated time and once inside, the group numbers were kept small to ensure everyone could hear the guides, feel comfortable and the place didn't become overcrowded. Highlights (although photos were not permitted inside) included the King's bedchamber, Singer's Hall and a Throne Room that had been built to replicate Hagia Sofia in Istanbul. This place definitely had the hallmarks of a romantic fairytale.
Model of the castle
Marienbrucke
Our next stop was to catch the view from the suspension bridge - Marienbrucke. Standing on the bridge allowed us to take photos of the entire profile of the castle. After the photo stop, we caught the bus back down to the town.
Spot the people on the bridge at Marienbrucke
Don't look down, the ravine under Marienbrucke
Gasthof Krone, Fussen
The options for lunch were limited at Hohenschwangau, so we decided to explore Fussen and chanced on a medieval themed restaurant - Gasthof Krone that used stone drinking vessels (instead of glass) and bibs (instead of napkins) to add to the effect.
Medieval rules of eating
Drinking from stone vessels in Fussen
The crispy pork knuckle drew us back to Bavaria
Augustiner-Keller
After walking around Fussen for a couple of hours, we took the train back to Munich where we caught up with Olie's cousin, Collin at Munich's oldest beer garden - Augustiner-Keller near the Central Station. The beer garden lined with chestnut trees that provide shelter for long wooden tables where families and tourists mixed with band members in traditional costume. We snacked on some cheese and dried sausage, drank more beers before meeting some locals (who insisted that we take photos with them) and a couple from LA that were blogging their way around Germany. As the beer garden closed, we were invited back to their hostel for some more beers. By complete coincidence, their hostel turned out to be the same one we had stayed at for Oktoberfest.
Olie in the beer garden
Marienplatz
The next day we headed to Marienplatz - the centre of the Old Town where we watched the Glockenspiel (a clock that chimes with dancing figures at midday) and ran into a parade of citizens on the march to the Hofbrauhaus in traditional costume.
Marienplatz
Citizens on the march to the Beer Hall
Accompanied by a band
Munich Residenz
As it was too early in the day to eat more pork knuckle, we headed a bit further north to the Residenz. Inside, we took a short tour of the Treasury and the royal apartments, including the Hall of Antiquities (Antiquarium) that dates back to the 1500's. Throughout history, the Munich Residenz had been hit by fires but the most serious damage was in WWII where bombing in 1944 destroyed most of the building and reconstruction and repair work continues until the present day.
Outside the Residenz
The shell design of the Grotto Court
One of the wall decorations in the Antiquarium
The Antiquarium, lined with Roman statues
The Treasury
The Treasury houses 1000 years of the Wittelsbach royal collection, with some of the highlights being relic books and crowns dating from the 1000 AD, jewellery made of precious stones and gifts from other royal dynasties.
Relic book of Emperor Henry II, dating 1000AD
A crown that originally came from Britain
as the dowry from a Princess
Cross of Queen Gisela, dated at 1006AD
A ceremonial necklace with emeralds and pearls
St George slaying the dragon, from 1586AD
An altar decoration made of gold and precious stones
It took 8 years to carve this walnut shell
Hofbrauhaus Beer Hall
After all the walking and soaking up the atmosphere of history and royal excess, we headed back to the Hofbrauhaus where steins of beer, sausages and suckling pig were on the menu, as the perfect end to a relaxing weekend in Munich.
Bringing back memories of Oktoberfest
Suckling pig and those yummy bouncy potato dumplings
A short video on the sights and sounds of our trip to Munich.
Napcabs, Munich Airport
At Munich Airport where we were passing time due to yet another Lufthansa airline delay, we spotted Napcabs -where you can rent a pod to catch that quick moment of sleep in between a hectic travel schedule.
Purchase a time-slot then
pull the shutter down for privacy.
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